Why I’m Studying Couture Embroidery (And What It Really Is)

A recent chat with a former colleague made me realize it’s time to explain in more detail what I’m actually studying right now.

 When I say I’m learning embroidery, most people imagine something quite simple, perhaps someone sitting comfortably in a rocking chair, stitching cross-stitch designs of dogs, butterflies, or flowers. And naturally, they ask:

 Why would you need to study something like that?

While cross-stitch is lovely, what I’m learning is entirely different. I’m studying couture embroidery - a specialized form of hand embroidery used in high fashion, art, and design.

What Is Couture Embroidery?

Couture embroidery is a professional craft rooted in traditional techniques, often seen in luxury fashion. If you’ve ever looked at runway shows by brands like Chanel, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, or Alexander McQueen, you’ve probably noticed how elaborate and richly decorated their garments are. Beads, sequins, silk flowers, crystals, these embellishments are everywhere.

What many don’t realize is this: most couture embroidery is done entirely by hand. Every bead, stitch, and appliqué is carefully applied by skilled artisans, usually using either a traditional needle or a Lunéville hook - a special tambour hook for attaching beads and sequins from underneath the fabric.

While machine embroidery exists, in couture work, hand embroidery remains the standard.

Why I Started Learning Couture Embroidery

This post is the beginning of a series where I’ll be documenting my studies.

I’ll be sharing:

• How I got into couture embroidery
• What the learning process actually looks like
• Complex techniques and materials
• My own designs and projects
• And sources of inspiration

It might not be interesting to everyone, but since I find it truly fascinating, I want to share my experience. 🤪

My Contemporary Embroidery Diploma

I’m currently pursuing the Contemporary Embroidery Diploma - and yes, a diploma is the main point here. It’s a structured, professional program focused on couture embroidery.

Here’s a quick overview:

• Duration: 9 months of structured study
• Modules: 5 specialized modules
• Each module: 3 months of guided classes
• Final projects: 5 (one per module)
• Completion timeline: up to 2 years after completing the coursework

 I’m studying online through Hand & Lock, one of Europe's oldest embroidery schools, founded in the 18th century.

 In future posts, I’ll talk about:

• Why I chose this school and what makes its approach to couture embroidery unique
• What each module covers, from foundational techniques to advanced applications
• What I plan to create as part of my diploma projects

Where Couture Embroidery Is Used

Couture embroidery isn’t just for clothing. It’s a versatile art form that finds its place in many creative fields:

• Fashion and haute couture garments, where embroidery defines texture and detail
• Accessories, including bags, belts, and gloves
• Jewelry design, combining embroidery with wearable art
• Interior design, including textiles, wall art, and decorative surfaces
• Fine art and installations, where embroidery becomes a medium of expression
• Furniture embellishment, adding handcrafted detail to functional objects

In essence, it blurs the lines between craft, design, and art. That’s exactly what I’m learning to create.

A Reality Check

After finishing the first three modules, I no longer wonder,

“Why do they give two full years to complete the final project?”

Instead, I find myself asking,

“Can I actually finish all my designs within those two years?”

The level of detail, time, and precision required in couture embroidery is much more intense than I initially thought.

What’s Coming Next

In this series on the Contemporary Embroidery Diploma, I want to take a closer look at various aspects, including how each module is structured; dive into specific embroidery techniques such as Lunéville work and bead embroidery; share my approved designs; and reveal the creative process behind them.

I’ll also showcase some truly astonishing pieces — including ones that sound almost unbelievable, like hand-embroidered silk wallpaper.

If there’s something you’d love to hear more about, just ask! I'll do my best to include it in future posts.